Sultans of Chapleau - October 20, 2017
In RPM – a spin class at GoodLife – very often the music takes me to some far away places. This could be pure and simple anoxia, or it could be that I’m actually getting into the groove. Whatever. To finish the class is to win.
Track 6 of RPM 66 – “(I’d Rather be a Lover than a) Raging Bull” – takes me to a logging road between Gogama and Chapleau in Northern Ontario in mid February. I think it’s because this is a song that just never seems to end…
What was I doing on a logging road in the coldest part of winter? Glad you asked. Back before our mortgage was paid off, but our kids were old enough to leave at home (and some had already left home,) Laur and I decided we wanted to go for a vacation during the February reading week. But we couldn’t afford to go equatorial, so we decided to embrace the northern winter and head further “arctic.”
There is something called “The Budd Car” – a two car train – that travels from Sudbury to White River and back three times a week, through many small communities, and Laur and I thought it would be grand to take it as far as Chapleau. Stay for a day and catch it on the return trip home.
What Northerners know about the Budd is that it is always breaking down – leaving hours late or even days late. Especially when the thermometer drips to minus 40. We arrived at the Sudbury train station only to find out that our train was going to be a day or two late leaving. Sigh! What to do?
We did what any good Northerner does, we went to a Tim Hortons for a coffee to plan our next move. Laur suggested, “Why don’t we drive it?” I could think of a few good reasons. Whereas I love trains, I hate riding in the car – especially in winter. But by now Laur had a gleam in his eyes, “We can drive down the Sultan road (a logging road) between Gogama and Chapleau. It will be an adventure.”
And yes, the first few kilometres of Northern Ontario are beautiful – but 450 of them? Gah! Laur sweetened the deal. “I have a manuscript of a book that I think you’ll really like and there are lots of nice hikes to be had in Chapleau!” The second part of his offer was added on without a whole lot of thought, but he had me at “a book that I think you’ll really like.” We headed out.
I have to say that the Sultan Road was truly beautiful. Rocks, trees, snow, frozen lakes, clear blue sky (since it’s minus 30 in the daytime), and completely deserted except for the odd logging truck that barreled by, giving the fools in the tiny Tempo a look that said, “Can’t you read the sign that says ‘Private road’? What are you going to do if your car breaks down? Walk to the closest Tim’s? This isn’t Sudbury, you know!”
And looking back, we were truly fools. We didn’t bring thermoses of hot fluids or extra blankets or flares. Not even a cell phone, though heaven knows we would likely be out of range there anyway.
But we made it to Chapleau and we had a wonderful time. We stayed at Aux Trois Moulins (the Three Windmills) which is, as promised on its website, “situated on the road leading to the Largest Game Preserve…and conveniently for the avid snowmobiler, on TOP F trail. Whether you need a home base for hunting, fishing or snowmobiling, or just a restful and relaxing overnight stay, we have more of what you came North for!”
Me, I just wanted the restful and relaxing overnight stay. And bonus! There was a community hot tub, which really helped us to warm up. (I was especially appreciative that, when we took a dip, we were the only ones in it. Gick!) We didn’t hike in the woods – the call of the wolves was a little too close for us. But we did take a long crisp walk around the neighbourhood streets – and saw a coyote or two. And it was very quiet at the motel except when all the snowmachiners headed out in the morning and returned at suppertime. If you love the bush, Chapleau is certainly the place for you.
We went home by a different route (taking a lesson from the three wise men?) – south on highway 129 and then east on 55 towards Sudbury – stopping at Blind River for my beloved Tim Hortons coffee. (Gah! There is no Tim Horton’s in Chapleau. Unbelievable, I know. How can a Sudburian give directions without referring to a Timmie’s?). Laurence loved the scenery; I loved reading the manuscript a second time through. When you have a “Dory” memory like mine, every book seems new though sometimes vaguely familiar. We left on a Tuesday and arrived alive on a Wednesday.
We didn’t do this trip again. The following year, our mortgage was paid off and we celebrated by going to Texas for a week. The next year, we did the same. And the following? We visited Arizona and bought a trailer. We visited it as much as Laur’s job and our income permitted. And now that Laur is retired, we aim to spend up to six months of the year at our seniors’ trailer park which is strangely named “Green Valley.” (We’re in the desert.)
As much as I love the North – sun and sand still beats sun and snow. We think the part of the reason we love AZ so much is that it reminds us of the North. Not the temperature or the precipitation of course. But oh, those blue blue skies and wide-open spaces…
https://youtu.be/3Y5EJTzF9u4?t=26
Track 6 of RPM 66 – “(I’d Rather be a Lover than a) Raging Bull” – takes me to a logging road between Gogama and Chapleau in Northern Ontario in mid February. I think it’s because this is a song that just never seems to end…
What was I doing on a logging road in the coldest part of winter? Glad you asked. Back before our mortgage was paid off, but our kids were old enough to leave at home (and some had already left home,) Laur and I decided we wanted to go for a vacation during the February reading week. But we couldn’t afford to go equatorial, so we decided to embrace the northern winter and head further “arctic.”
There is something called “The Budd Car” – a two car train – that travels from Sudbury to White River and back three times a week, through many small communities, and Laur and I thought it would be grand to take it as far as Chapleau. Stay for a day and catch it on the return trip home.
What Northerners know about the Budd is that it is always breaking down – leaving hours late or even days late. Especially when the thermometer drips to minus 40. We arrived at the Sudbury train station only to find out that our train was going to be a day or two late leaving. Sigh! What to do?
We did what any good Northerner does, we went to a Tim Hortons for a coffee to plan our next move. Laur suggested, “Why don’t we drive it?” I could think of a few good reasons. Whereas I love trains, I hate riding in the car – especially in winter. But by now Laur had a gleam in his eyes, “We can drive down the Sultan road (a logging road) between Gogama and Chapleau. It will be an adventure.”
And yes, the first few kilometres of Northern Ontario are beautiful – but 450 of them? Gah! Laur sweetened the deal. “I have a manuscript of a book that I think you’ll really like and there are lots of nice hikes to be had in Chapleau!” The second part of his offer was added on without a whole lot of thought, but he had me at “a book that I think you’ll really like.” We headed out.
I have to say that the Sultan Road was truly beautiful. Rocks, trees, snow, frozen lakes, clear blue sky (since it’s minus 30 in the daytime), and completely deserted except for the odd logging truck that barreled by, giving the fools in the tiny Tempo a look that said, “Can’t you read the sign that says ‘Private road’? What are you going to do if your car breaks down? Walk to the closest Tim’s? This isn’t Sudbury, you know!”
And looking back, we were truly fools. We didn’t bring thermoses of hot fluids or extra blankets or flares. Not even a cell phone, though heaven knows we would likely be out of range there anyway.
But we made it to Chapleau and we had a wonderful time. We stayed at Aux Trois Moulins (the Three Windmills) which is, as promised on its website, “situated on the road leading to the Largest Game Preserve…and conveniently for the avid snowmobiler, on TOP F trail. Whether you need a home base for hunting, fishing or snowmobiling, or just a restful and relaxing overnight stay, we have more of what you came North for!”
Me, I just wanted the restful and relaxing overnight stay. And bonus! There was a community hot tub, which really helped us to warm up. (I was especially appreciative that, when we took a dip, we were the only ones in it. Gick!) We didn’t hike in the woods – the call of the wolves was a little too close for us. But we did take a long crisp walk around the neighbourhood streets – and saw a coyote or two. And it was very quiet at the motel except when all the snowmachiners headed out in the morning and returned at suppertime. If you love the bush, Chapleau is certainly the place for you.
We went home by a different route (taking a lesson from the three wise men?) – south on highway 129 and then east on 55 towards Sudbury – stopping at Blind River for my beloved Tim Hortons coffee. (Gah! There is no Tim Horton’s in Chapleau. Unbelievable, I know. How can a Sudburian give directions without referring to a Timmie’s?). Laurence loved the scenery; I loved reading the manuscript a second time through. When you have a “Dory” memory like mine, every book seems new though sometimes vaguely familiar. We left on a Tuesday and arrived alive on a Wednesday.
We didn’t do this trip again. The following year, our mortgage was paid off and we celebrated by going to Texas for a week. The next year, we did the same. And the following? We visited Arizona and bought a trailer. We visited it as much as Laur’s job and our income permitted. And now that Laur is retired, we aim to spend up to six months of the year at our seniors’ trailer park which is strangely named “Green Valley.” (We’re in the desert.)
As much as I love the North – sun and sand still beats sun and snow. We think the part of the reason we love AZ so much is that it reminds us of the North. Not the temperature or the precipitation of course. But oh, those blue blue skies and wide-open spaces…
https://youtu.be/3Y5EJTzF9u4?t=26